An unassuming little lane running off Torrington Street, parallel to Clarke Street, bears the name of a woman who grew up in Glen Innes and went on the reshape the landscape of cookery and cookery writing in Australia.
Fulton Lane in Glen Innes stands as a small reminder of Margaret Isabel Fulton (1924 – 2019), named by a journalist at the now defunct Bulletin magazine as Australia’s original domestic goddess.
The Fulton family emigrated from Scotland in 1927. Sandy and Isabella Fulton made the game decision to bring their six children out to Australia. Sandy was a talented tailor and was sponsored in the immigration process by Walter Ruthven. Margaret was the youngest child. The family lived at one time in Macquarie Street, between Meade and Bourke St, and also at 121 Church Street.
Margaret grew up fascinated by the way her mother, a very good cook, could transform ingredients into magnificent meals. At a very young age she learnt the importance of good ingredients, and the basic methods of cooking.
However, she saw her mother was not so talented at baking. It seems that Margaret went looking for this skill elsewhere and word has it that a Mrs. Wright who resided in her later years in Veness Street might have been an able teacher in this area.
Margaret left for Sydney following the completion of her Leaving Certificate. She had dreams of trying to enter the rag trade, but the universe seemed to have other plans. Those plans included (amongst other things) her being the food editor for Women’s Day for two decades and producing more than twenty cookbooks. The first Margaret Fulton Cookbook published in 1968 went on to become a household staple. Her Margaret Fulton Christmas, published in 2009 is one of the most beautiful cookbooks ever to focus on Christmas fare from around the world.
In 1983, Margaret was awarded an OAM for services to journalism and cooking. After this she continued to publish further cookbooks and be involved in food related activities. And the apple didn’t fall far from the tree. Her daughter and her two granddaughters have followed in her able footsteps as food writers. One of her granddaughters has been involved, in previous years, at the Gourmet Fiesta at the Glen Innes Show.
When you pass Fulton Lane, remember the powerhouse that was Margaret Fulton and her impact on the world of food preparation and writing in Australia. And remember, Glen Innes helped shape her.
(Sources: Research Centre at the Land of the Beardies, Margaret Fulton’s memoir ‘I sang for my supper and additional research)
